Labderma — laboratory journal13th of September, 202646.05°N · 14.51°E · Ljubljana, SI · Est. 2024
We develop and manufacture cosmetic products with a strong focus on formulation quality, technical control and product differentiation. Our work covers the complete development process, from the first brief and laboratory prototype to testing, documentation and manufacturing for your brand.
Development laboratory
Every formulation starts with a clear product brief.
SERVICE 01
EXPERT FORMULATION OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS
We develop new formulations and adapt existing ones to achieve the intended skin feel, appearance, performance and sensory profile.
SERVICE 02
CHOOSING THE COSMETIC FORM AND THE CONTAINER
Gel, cream or serum? Bottle, tube or jar? The most suitable form for the product, together with the pack that doses it, its material, and testing of its chemical compatibility with the formula.
SERVICE 03
STABILITY TESTING
The mandatory cyclic testing that establishes how long the product stays stable — its shelf life.
Our approach to Developing a New Cosmetic Product
Our cosmetic product development service covers the full path from the initial concept to a finished product prepared for market. The process includes:
Research and Analysis: Once you have presented your idea and vision, we support you with in-depth research into the market for similar products and an analysis of your target customers’ needs. Together we can then build a comprehensive product concept that fits your vision, the desired effect, appearance and quality, customer expectations and, not least, cost-efficient production.
Formulation Development: Once the final vision is set, your idea will come to life in the hands of our development chemist, who will create an innovative and effective formulation for your product. We use carefully selected, certified raw materials, and the result is a prototype sample for you to test. We then refine the prototype on your feedback, new ideas and comments until it is right.
The goal is a safe, effective and commercially relevant formulation tailored to your brief, supported by current scientific knowledge, suitable raw materials and the testing required for the intended market.
Testing and Validation: Once the prototype is complete, it undergoes rigorous tests and evaluations following European and global regulations to ensure safety, efficacy, and compliance throughout the product’s expected lifespan.
Optimization and Customization: Based on feedback and test results, final technical adjustments are made to the formulation to achieve optimal results.
Product Information File (PIF) Generation: The PIF is the central technical file required for a cosmetic product placed on the EU market. It brings together the product description, the CPSR, manufacturing and GMP information, supporting evidence for claims where relevant, and other documentation required by EU cosmetics legislation. It documents the basis on which the product’s safety and regulatory compliance are assessed. When developing products with us, the PIF is included as part of the final deliverable.
The development path — No. 003
Which are the main stages of development, and how long does each one take?
An indicative path through a development project, stage by stage, with an estimate of its duration and a list of the information we need from the client. The estimate is indicative and depends on each individual project.
A theoretical recipe is drawn up: a review of reference products, the choice of raw materials, the concentrations of the actives, the preservative system, the intended sensory profile, and confirmation of what can actually be supplied.
The stages overlap in part, so in places the total can be shorter than the sum of the individual stages. We draw up an exact schedule once the project is confirmed, while reserving the right to extend it should unforeseen circumstances arise. We recommend beginning development at least one season before the product is due to go on sale.
Prototyping
From the first sample to the first batch.
PAO
How do we arrive at the number in the open-jar symbol?
The period after opening is a conclusion drawn from four sources of data, all of them gathered while the product's safety report is being prepared.
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The safety assessment settles on a sensibly conservative PAO, as a rule 6M, 12M or 24M, supported by all four sources of test data. The number and the reasoning behind it have to stand up under inspection.
Stability test (ISO/TR 18811:2018)
The time the product stays untouched through cyclic testing under exaggerated conditions (raised temperature, centrifugation, controlled humidity) and, in parallel, in real time. The product is tested in parallel in the intended final packaging and in inert laboratory packaging, allowing us to distinguish changes caused by the formulation from those related to packaging compatibility. We follow appearance, odour, colour, pH and viscosity, along with any separation of phases — and at the same time the suitability of the packaging itself.
When do we not set a PAO?
A shelf life of 30 months or less. The label then carries a “best used before” date and the jar symbol is left off.
Single-use products. There is no opening and no reuse, so setting a period after opening makes no sense.
Products that are never opened. Products in sealed sprayers and aerosols, whose contents never come into contact with air or fingers, are given no PAO.
Products at very low risk of microbiological contamination after opening — anhydrous products and others that are no medium for microorganisms to grow in.
Which case applies to your product is settled by the safety assessor, though we discuss it in part with the client while the formulation is being planned and the packaging chosen.
SERVICE 07
NOTIFYING THE PRODUCT IN THE CPNP PORTAL
Notification of the product in the CPNP portal, and help with the other mandatory documentation that selling cosmetics brings with it.
SERVICE 08
ADAPTING A FORMULA TO EARN A CHOSEN CERTIFICATION
Formulations adapted for particular markets, for medically restricted groups, and for culturally defined ones.
SERVICE 09
REVERSE FORMULATION
A new formulation developed to reproduce selected characteristics of an existing reference product, without simply copying its composition.
Alternative Approaches to Cosmetic Formulation Development
Formulation Adaptation to qualify for different Certifications: We also adapt formulations to the requirements of various quality certifications. Since standards differ between international and European certifiers, please tell us which certificate you have in mind before development begins.
Reverse Formulation: This service involves analysing and emulating an existing product by another supplier that you like and that inspired you. The final product will still be unique and chemically distinct from its inspiration; the aim is to achieve similar visual characteristics and skin benefits.
Safety Assessment and Testing for Existing Products: If you already have a product developed and manufactured outside the European Union, remember that a PIF document is still mandatory for the product to go on sale on the EU market – including a mandatory safety assessment. We offer testing and safety evaluation services for existing products intended for import into the EU.
Note: Test results and safety assessments for products not developed with us can turn out negative or insufficient, or show that the formulation needs to change. We offer preliminary consultations, interpret the final results, and advise on the adjustments and solutions needed. For products we develop, we are committed from the start to delivering a product that passes every safety assessment.
Ask the formulator
Have a question?
Common questions are answered with what can be found across this site. Where there is no answer, the question goes to the laboratory along with your address, and you are answered within a few working days.
Anja: Hello — what would you like to know about formulating and manufacturing your own brand? 🧪
If the answer is not in our database, we pass the question to the laboratory, which replies within a few working days.
Decorative cosmetics are not our main line of work, and we do not hide it. We are skincare specialists, but we are glad to take on lip gloss, liquid lipstick and anything else with a liquid to cream consistency.
Powders we do not take on for now, and neither do we take on solid lipstick. The reason is not that we cannot! For now it is only that there has never been reason enough to buy all the machinery it takes. Perhaps there will be now, with you joining us.
Lip glossBy arrangement
Liquid lipstickBy arrangement
Tinted lip balmBy arrangement
Cream blush and highlighterBy arrangement
… and any other cream or liquid colour product you have in mind!
Powders — pressed and looseNot on offer for now
Every makeup project is judged on its own terms, and we build the knowledge and the equipment around what is being asked for.
You are warmly welcome to come and talk it through.